Maes Glas

August 20, 2009

As a member of Bangor University, I have access to the climbing wall in the Maes Glas sports centre.  The prices seem reasonable (£3ish) and I have heard good things about the place, so I will pop along tomorrow and sign up.

Feeling a bit achey today after climbing on Tuesday, then heavy box-lifting yesterday.  Plus I went for a run yesterday lunchtime.  I can never decide whether it’s good to exercise while still aching.  I guess an aching muscle is one which is damaged, and is being repaired.  On the other hand it is useful to know which areas need improvement, or which haven’t worked hard enough.  I suppose it’s better just to be careful.


Oh look I made a chart

August 19, 2009

Oh gosh I hope this works. This should be a chart made using Google Charts’ API. It should show a bar graph with the number of routes climbed at a number of grades…

Test image

Test image

At the moment it doesn’t show plus-marks for grades (but does show minuses), and it needs labels and things added to it. I should do one of these for indoor, sport and trad climbing and for bouldering.


This is much better. The Google API is a bit of a pain to use though. No plus-marks, so stars it is.


Beacon – 18 Aug

August 19, 2009

Went with Helen and Fudge to the Beacon last night. I was starting basically from scratch, so wasn’t hugely surprised not to be able to do a F5+ up an overhanging corner. Oddly enough I could do a F5c that was just about vertical. I think multiple planes is a problem for me – I need flat faces!

Before climbing the routes we bouldered a bit. This was quite refreshing – the Beacon has a very good bouldering section with good holds and a good range of problems. The problems aren’t graded, but have relative difficulty indicated with different colours. I need a few more trips to get a feel for this though.


Oh hello

August 19, 2009

Okay so.

I have always wanted to lead E5.  This is my accountability system for getting this done.  I will try to keep track of climbing and bouldering, of climbing-related stuff, and of general fitnessy things.

I have until 18th August 2010 to lead a route graded E5.  This can be any route, but I have some rules:

  • No sports routes – if the guide gives it a French grade it doesn’t count
  • Slate routes count even if bolted, unless the previous rule applies
  • That’s it

The main obstacles in my path are:

  • I am weak and pathetic (hopefully this is solvable)
  • I am training for a marathon (this is a drain on time, but the fitness should come in handy)
  • I am due to become a father in a couple of months (omg)

However there should be some factors in my favour:

  • I actually quite like climbing
  • I live in Llanberis
  • I used to be reasonably good, before I became fat and weak.

I hope I can keep track of things here over the next twelve months (minus one day), and show some significant progress as the weather worsens!